Off the beaten track with Torunn Tronsvang, founder of Up Norway
Earlier this month, Mercator founder Nell Hegarty was lucky enough to be whisked away on a whirlwind tour of Norway’s Arctic North with Up Norway, where she experienced her very own Norwegian ‘eventyr’ (fairytale). Here she asks Torunn about how she combines passion for her native country with unbeatable insider knowledge to give clients a unique perspective on this majestic land (along with her secret weapon when it comes to staying warm).
On deciding to start up her own travel company…
After studying, working and travelling in many amazing countries, Up Norway is my way of sharing experiences from my home country – a spot I find, after much reflection, is one of the most wonderful places on earth. In 2016, I set out to create a company for thoughtful travellers, those interested in experiences off the beaten path. I hoped to do so while creating better practices in ecotourism and responsible social impact. I felt I was on to something special. And now, with a few years and numerous journeys behind us, I know I was right.
On what makes Norway so special…
Norway is proof that paradise does not have to be in the tropics. The scenery is amazing, out of this world – seriously! Mountains, glaciers, fjords, flora and fauna… Moose, reindeer, whales, eagles, puffins, even muskoxen – what more could you want? Add to that the finest of Northern celestial phenomena: you can enjoy the midnight sun in the summer, while Northern Lights will amaze you through the winter. The North Sea teems with marine life and birds, while on land you’ll find five million robust inhabitants, along with a couple of million sheep and reindeer, a hundred thousand moose, plenty of lynx and even a few bears. But don’t take my word for it, come and experience it for yourself!
On getting around and slowing down…
Although it’s a massive stretch of land with very few people, an extraordinary transportation network serves every last corner of the map. Don’t rush, just breathe and take it all in – travelling in Norway is as much about the journey as the final destination. Think carefully about the transport you are choosing and help move towards more sustainable travel, even if that means a slow boat or train. At Up Norway, one of our great strengths is helping guests to travel seamlessly around the country with digital itineraries, which comes in handy if you’ve ever tried to decipher Norwegian transportation timetables! Norwegians love their long, impenetrable language, as well as the awesome letters Æ-Ø-Å. Place names are often differentiated by just a letter or two, so it helps to have an expert plan your route.
On her love of ‘friluftsliv’…
Like most Norwegians, I share a love of ‘friluftsliv’ (life in the great outdoors). Easy access to nature allows people to indulge in their favourite activities such as hiking and cross-country skiing. The wilderness lies only a few minutes in any direction from the centre of any town, even the major cities. ‘Gå på tur’ (take a hike) is a collective obsession. Bus and metro carriages are filled with people in heavy boots and Gore-tex outerwear with skis and poles, snowboards or toboggans, ice hockey sticks or mountain bikes, and lycra as far as the eye can see. Everybody always seems to be either just coming back from some thrilling adventure or embarking, Amundsen-like, upon one.
On unmissable experiences for a first-timer…
It has to be the Northern Lights or midnight sun, depending on the season. As well as finding ‘Friluftsliv’ (above) you really must try to experience Kos, a truly special, yet intangible concept that is uniquely Norwegian. Kos is a state of mind, a feeling that can be felt alone or with others. It is peace. It is being grateful and appreciating what you have around you. You might be in the forest with the sun on your face and the only person for miles around, you might be sinking into an oversized sofa with your favourite wool jumper and a wood-fire roaring while a storm rolls in, you might be savouring dinner with your family overlooking a fjord. It is the art of consciously appreciating what is happening.
On must-try Norwegian dishes for foodie travellers…
You can’t leave Norway without trying Pinnekjøtt. Often served at Christmas, it is an intensely-flavoured dish of lamb ribs, salted and dried using ancient preservation methods. The name literally means ‘stick meat’, thought to refer either to the birch sticks used in the steaming process, or the meat’s resemblance to sticks. It’s usually served with a side dish of steaming root vegetable mash. Delicious!
On keeping cosy during winter trips…
In Norway it’s practicality first, fashion second. A tip for inexperienced visitors: please do what the Scandinavians do and wear a wool layer against your skin when it is cold. Cotton or synthetic fabrics may keep you warm when you are dry, but it does not help when you get wet, humid, or sweat like a sow in a steam room. Wool does the trick. Locals always tend to have Gore-tex and down jackets handy. Bring good outerwear, in both summer and winter, as it is not unusual for conditions to shift suddenly. When travelling in Norway, you may on the rare occasion risk being 'Værfast', directly translated as 'weather-stuck'. Rapid changes in the weather are normal, and something you have to be prepared for as a traveller in the North. Finally, always pack a bathing suit as a sauna or fjord will never be far away!
On why sustainable travel is so important and how we can play our part…
In Norway, we have something called ‘Cabin Culture’. For hundreds of years, we’ve treasured our getaway cottages and cabins, where we unplug, enjoy the scenery, and connect with loved ones. In fact, one in every six families in Norway has access to their own private cabin. And more than half of all the cabins in Norway are in locations without visible neighbours. It’s a clear statement of how much we value our rich, natural landscapes which vary from mountains to fjords, from coastlines to forests. When the pandemic hit our globe, what did Norwegians do? They withdrew to their cabins. And as our society has modernised, we seem to have collectively gained an awareness of the major role the natural environment plays in our happiness. Living close to nature, through Norway’s four very different seasons, encourages a wide range of physical activities and social interactions. Without a doubt, we believe it contributes to happier living. For us, as a company, sustainability is about minimising our footprint and maximising our positive impact, no matter where our journeys take us. We strive for an economic model that is attuned to nature and culture. Our team and partners are committed to making even more sustainable choices. By connecting our clients with our favourite people, we hope that our journeys will lead to mind-opening conversations and inspire positive changes in our travellers’ home countries all over the world. And, in doing so, we believe we can help even more people to live happier lives.